Open-cell and closed-cell foam
Spray Foam Insulation in Tallahassee, FL
The right foam for each surface: open-cell where air sealing and cost matter most, closed-cell where moisture is part of the problem.
- Free in-person estimates
- Written quotes that list foam type, thickness and R-value for each area
- Roof leaks, damp wood and termite clearances checked before we spray
Two Foams, Matched to a Humid Climate
Spray foam insulation is a liquid that expands as it is sprayed, fills the cavity it lands in and cures into a solid layer that both insulates and blocks air. In Tallahassee, where Wikipedia's climate table lists average July humidity of about 80% and 58.81 inches of yearly rain, blocking air also means blocking a lot of water vapor from getting into the house. Who needs it? Homes with ducts in a hot attic, crawl spaces that smell musty, rooms over garages or porches, additions, and metal buildings. A quick way to tell: if one room is always hotter than the rest, or your AC runs most of a summer afternoon, there is usually an air leak worth finding.
Closed cell vs open cell
Open-cell foam cures soft and spongy and expands a lot, so a thin spray fills an irregular cavity. HomeGuide rates it at R-3.5 to R-3.7 per inch. It is a good air barrier and dampens sound, and it costs less. Water vapor can pass through it, so the design has to account for that. Closed-cell foam cures hard and dense, at R-5 to R-7 per inch in HomeGuide's figures. At normal thickness it slows vapor, sheds water rather than soaking it up, and adds some stiffness to what it is sprayed on.
In North Florida, open-cell is the common choice under a roof deck when an attic becomes an unvented, conditioned space, and in interior or above-grade walls. Closed-cell fits places that can get damp: crawl space walls, the underside of raised floors near the coast, rim boards, and the steel in metal buildings. Plenty of houses use both.
Unvented attics: bringing the ducts inside
Many Tallahassee homes have the air handler and ductwork in a vented attic that can run far hotter than the outdoor air on a sunny afternoon. Every leak in that ductwork dumps cooled air into a hot space. Spraying foam on the underside of the roof deck and sealing the gable and soffit vents turns the attic into a semi-conditioned space, so the ducts sit in air near indoor temperature. This changes how the roof assembly handles moisture, so it has to be planned, not improvised. We look at roof age, any leaks, combustion appliances in the attic and how the space will be kept dry before we recommend it.
Code levels and the right thickness
Leon County is in IECC Climate Zone 2A. The Insulation Institute's summary of the 2023 Florida Building Code, Energy Conservation lists R-38 ceilings and R-13 wood-frame walls in Zone 2. Foam under a roof deck is often designed to a performance path rather than a straight R-38, so the thickness on your quote will be tied to the approach chosen for your home. We write both the thickness and the R-value on the quote so you can compare it with other bids.
Where foam is the wrong choice
Foam does not fix a leak. If the roof, a window or a pipe is wetting the framing, it needs repair first, or foam will hide the damage. Old knob-and-tube wiring should be checked by an electrician before anything covers it. And on a wide attic floor with room to work, blown-in insulation over good air sealing is often the lower-cost way to reach R-38. Florida's building code also limits foam plastic on the outside face of foundation walls in very heavy termite areas and keeps a six-inch inspection gap between soil and siding, so we keep foam out of those zones.
Prep, spraying and getting back in
The spraying goes quickly; the prep takes time. We cover floors and belongings, mask windows, vents and fixtures, and set up ventilation. HomeGuide recommends leaving the house for at least 24 hours while foam cures. Once cured, foam does not settle or sag, so the thickness we leave is the thickness you keep.
Tell us which spaces you are thinking about and what you have noticed. We will look and send a written foam plan with a price. Get a free estimate
Where Spray Foam Goes
The spaces we spray most often in Big Bend homes and buildings, and the foam we usually choose.
Open-cell under the roof deck
Creates an unvented attic so ducts and the air handler sit in near-indoor air instead of summer attic heat.
Closed-cell in crawl spaces
Sprayed on foundation walls or the underside of the floor where humid air and damp soil are part of the problem.
Raised floors near the coast
Closed-cell under homes on pilings or piers to stop drafts and cold floors and seal the floor from outside air.
Additions and porch enclosures
Open stud and rafter bays in new rooms, sized to the Zone 2 wall and ceiling targets.
Bonus rooms and garages
Floors and kneewalls of rooms over garages, sealed against heat and exhaust fumes.
Metal buildings and barns
Closed-cell on roof and wall steel to cut heat gain and stop condensation drips.

Published Spray Foam Insulation Costs
| Job | Range and source |
|---|---|
| Spray foam, installed | $1.50 to $5.00 per sq ft (HomeGuide) |
| Open-cell / closed-cell | $1.50 to $3.50 / $3.00 to $5.00 per sq ft (HomeGuide) |
| Roof deck (attic underside) | $1,500 to $9,000 (HomeGuide) |
| About 1,000 sq ft | $1,500 to $5,000 (HomeGuide); $3,150 to $7,500 existing home (Fixr) |
| Existing walls / new construction | $3.15 to $7.50 / $2.75 to $6.50 per sq ft (Fixr) |
| Whole house | $8,000 to $20,000 (HomeGuide); $10,000 to $30,000 (Fixr) |
| Typical job minimum | $1,000 to $2,000+ (HomeGuide) |
National ranges from HomeGuide's 2026 guide and Fixr's 2025 guide, not Tallahassee quotes. Foam type, thickness, access and prep set the total. Once we have measured, the price on your written estimate is the price you pay.
How a Spray Foam Job Goes
1. Look and measure
We inspect each space for leaks, damp wood, wiring issues and termite clearances, and measure.
2. Written plan
The quote names the foam, thickness, target R-value and price for every area.
3. Prep and protect
We cover and mask, close off the work area and set up ventilation.
4. Spray in passes
Foam goes on to the planned thickness, then we trim where needed.
5. Clean up and walk through
We clean up, show you the work and tell you when you can return.

Why Choose Us for Spray Foam Insulation
Foam only where it pays
If blown-in or air sealing alone would work for less, we say so.
Moisture plan included
Unvented attics and crawl spaces get a written plan for keeping them dry.
Inspection zones respected
We keep foam out of the termite inspection gap the Florida code requires.
Spray Foam Insulation Questions
Will spray foam on my roof deck make the shingles too hot?
Shingles under a foamed deck can run somewhat warmer, but the main heat source is still the sun. We check roof age and condition first, and if a roof is near the end of its life we suggest timing the foam with the reroof.
Does open-cell foam trap moisture in a Florida attic?
It can if the attic is not planned as a conditioned space. An unvented attic needs the vents sealed and a way to keep the air dry, usually through the HVAC system. We explain the plan before we spray.
Can spray foam go over existing insulation?
Not on top of loose fill or batts. Foam needs to bond to a clean surface like the roof deck, studs or block. Old material on the attic floor may stay or come out depending on the plan.
How long does spray foam last?
Cured foam does not settle or sag the way loose fill can, so it keeps its thickness. It still needs to be protected from sunlight and kept dry, and we point out any roof or plumbing problems first.
Is spray foam safe once it cures?
HomeGuide advises staying out for at least 24 hours while it cures. After that, the house is ventilated and you can return. We confirm timing for your job.

Spray Foam Insulation Service Areas
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Get a Spray Foam Insulation Estimate
Tell us the spaces and what you have noticed. We will look and send a written foam plan.